Rib, Interlock and Ponte: Choosing the Right Double-Face Knit
Three double-face structures solve single jersey's curling and sheerness differently: hugging rib, smooth-stable interlock, thick-structural ponte.
Single jersey (single bed) curls at the edges and is single-faced. When you want body-hugging or a smooth, stable surface, double-face structures step in: rib, interlock and ponte. All three are knitted on two needle beds but behave very differently.
Rib: hugging and stretchy
Rib carries vertical channels on both faces; it stretches strongly across and recovers even without elastane. That is why it is the cloth of collars, cuffs and waistbands. Its lengthwise stretch is limited.
Interlock: smooth, stable, opaque
Interlock is a smooth-faced double-knit formed by interlocking two ribs; both faces are identical, smooth and non-curling. It is more opaque and stable than single jersey, but stretches less. The fabric listed as 'Interlock rib' in the catalogue is this smooth-faced interlock; the 'rib' suffix needs clarifying so it isn't mistaken for ribbed cloth.
Ponte (Punto di Roma): thick and structural
Ponte di Roma is a single, thick, bodied double-knit made on a double bed with a knit + tuck repeat; it carries a subtle horizontal rib. Contrary to a common misconception it is NOT 'two interlock layers bonded together' — it is one fabric. It gives the upright stance of structured dresses, skirts and jacket-like pieces.
| Structure | Stretch | Surface | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rib | High crosswise | Ribbed (channels) | Trims, cuffs, hugging tops |
| Interlock | Low-medium | Smooth, identical faces | Tees, polos, lining |
| Ponte / Punto di Roma | Medium (2-way) | Thick, smooth, bodied | Dresses, skirts, structured tops |
For the buyer
Hugging, stretchy edge/trim → rib. Smooth, opaque, stable body → interlock. Thick, upright, structured piece → ponte. These three solve single jersey's curling and sheerness at different cost and weight.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between rib, interlock and ponte?
All three are double-face structures: rib hugs and stretches (collars, cuffs, trims), interlock is flat, stable and opaque (jerseys, innerwear), and ponte (Punto di Roma) is thicker and more structural (dresses, skirts, jackets).
Which one for collars/cuffs, which one for dresses?
Rib is used for collars, cuffs and trims; ponte for structured dresses, skirts and jackets. Interlock sits between them, giving a flat, opaque tee/top base.