Fleece and Scuba: Structured Polyester Knits
Raised polar fleece and double-knit scuba (neoprene-style): warmth, structure, drape and where each is used.
Fleece and scuba are two families of structured polyester knit used for warmth and bodied structure. Both are bulky with a substantial hand, but their surface and performance characters differ markedly.
Fleece (raised knit)
Fleece is made by brushing (napping) one or both faces of a knit to raise a pile. Air is trapped between the lifted fibres; this still-air layer provides excellent insulation. Fleece is light, dries fast and retains most of its warmth even when damp. Depending on weight and pile density it ranges from thin micro-fleece to thick, wool-like qualities.
Scuba and neoprene-style double knit
Scuba is a fine double knit (in the double-bed / interlock family), usually with some elastane; its surface is smooth and its hand lightly spongy and full. It takes its name from diving neoprene because it gives a similar body and recovery feel, yet contains no foam rubber. The structure stands up, holds its shape and lends itself to sculptural silhouettes.
Warmth and structure compared
- Fleece: high insulation / loft, soft napped surface, breathable, light.
- Scuba: moderate insulation, smooth surface, high body and shape retention.
- Fleece is typically single- or double-brushed; scuba is a smooth double knit.
- Elastane in scuba provides four-way stretch and recovery.
- Heat-setting is critical in both for dimensional stability.
End uses
- Fleece: mid/inner-layer jackets, sweatpants, blankets, linings, beanies.
- Scuba: structured dresses, skirts, blazers, sport-fusion pieces.
- Fleece is very commonly made with recycled polyester (rPET).
- Scuba suits precise, pattern-driven designs where seam lines read cleanly.
Production considerations
In fleece, napping density and shearing determine both hand and pilling tendency; an anti-pilling finish preserves surface quality. In scuba, surface smoothness and even elastane distribution matter for pressability and dimensional stability. In both, correct weight selection sets the balance between target warmth and drape.