From yarn and fibre to knit structure, dyeing, finishing and quality testing — guides organised category by category to understand performance polyester knit fabric.
Convert one yarn count into its equivalent across five systems instantly.
Formula
The canonical unit is Tex. Denier = Tex × 9 · Dtex = Tex × 10 · Nm = 1000 ÷ Tex · Ne = 590.5 ÷ Tex (pure synthetic). Direct systems (tex/denier/dtex) are mass-based — a higher number means a coarser yarn; indirect systems (Nm/Ne) are length-based — a higher number means a finer yarn.
150 denier = 150 ÷ 9 = 16.67 tex (equivalent to 60 Nm). Denier is the weight of 9,000 m, tex of 1,000 m of yarn.
What is the difference between denier and dtex?
Denier is the gram weight of 9,000 m, dtex of 10,000 m. Conversion: dtex = denier × 1.111.
What are direct and indirect count systems?
Direct systems (tex, denier, dtex) measure weight per length — a higher value means a coarser yarn. Indirect systems (Nm, Ne) measure length per weight — a higher value means a finer yarn.
Why is the Ne constant 590.5 for polyester?
The Ne–Tex constant is 590.5 for pure synthetics; cotton uses 583.1 because of moisture. This tool assumes 590.5 for polyester.
GSM ↔ oz/yd² Converter
Bridge metric (g/m²) and US/UK (oz/yd²) fabric weight.
Formula
g/m² = oz/yd² × 33.906 · oz/yd² = g/m² ÷ 33.906. The 33.906 constant comes from one ounce (28.35 g) over one square yard (0.836 m²).
GSM (g/m²) is the weight in grams of one square metre of fabric — the standard measure of fabric weight/density.
What is oz/yd²?
oz/yd² is the weight in ounces of one square yard of fabric — the unit commonly used by US and UK buyers.
Meter ↔ Kilogram (Roll) Converter
From weight and width, find a roll’s metres ↔ kilograms.
Formula
Weight per metre (g) = GSM × width(m). Weight (kg) = length(m) × GSM × width(m) ÷ 1000. Length (m) = weight(kg) × 1000 ÷ (GSM × width). Enter either length or weight; the other is computed.
Worked example
180 g/m², 1.5 m width, 1000 m → per metre 180 × 1.5 = 270 g; total 1000 × 270 ÷ 1000 = 270 kg. Conversely 270 kg → 270 × 1000 ÷ 270 = 1000 m.
Frequently asked questions
How many metres is 1 kg of fabric?
Length = 1 × 1000 ÷ (GSM × width). E.g. at 180 g/m² and 1.5 m width: 1000 ÷ 270 = 3.70 m/kg.
How do I find roll weight?
Weight (kg) = length × GSM × width ÷ 1000. Weight per metre = GSM × width (g).
From total denier (or dtex) and filament count, find the fineness of a single filament and see its microfibre/normal/coarse class.
Formula
DPF = total denier ÷ filament count · dtex/filament = total dtex ÷ filament count. Classes: < 1 denier/filament (≈ < 1.1 dtex/filament) is microfibre, 1–2 is fine, 2–7 is normal, ≥ 7 is coarse. Example: 150/48 → 150 ÷ 48 = 3.125 denier/filament.
Worked example
Yarn 150/48: 150 ÷ 48 = 3.125 denier/filament. On the dtex side 150 denier = 166.7 dtex, and 166.7 ÷ 48 = 3.47 dtex/filament. Since 3.125 sits in the 2–7 normal range, the yarn is a normal-fineness filament. Split the same 150 denier across 144 filaments and 150 ÷ 144 = 1.04 denier/filament → inside the fine band (1–2), bordering microfibre.
Frequently asked questions
What does 150/48 mean?
The first number is the total fineness (150 denier), the second is the filament count in the bundle (48). Dividing gives the fineness per filament: 150 ÷ 48 = 3.125 denier/filament. Spreading the same 150 denier over more filaments (e.g. 150/144) makes each filament finer and softens the fabric.
How many denier per filament is microfibre?
Microfibre is a filament finer than 1 denier per filament (about < 1.1 dtex/filament). For example 100/144 → 100 ÷ 144 = 0.69 denier/filament is microfibre; 150/48 → 3.125 is not.
How does DPF affect the fabric?
Low DPF (fine, many filaments) gives a softer hand, better cover and drape, and a more matte look. High DPF (coarse, few filaments) gives a firmer hand and a fuller, more durable structure. With total denier fixed, raising the filament count lowers DPF.
What if I enter dtex instead of total denier?
The logic is identical: dtex/filament = total dtex ÷ filament count. Denier and dtex relate by dtex = denier × 1.111; the microfibre threshold reads as < 1 in denier and ≈ < 1.1 in dtex.
From a POY denier and draw ratio, find the estimated DTY denier after texturing and the theoretical mass yield.
Formula
DTY denier ≈ POY denier ÷ draw ratio (ESTIMATED — the real value depends on the machine and texturing parameters). Typical draw ratio 1.5–1.7. Theoretical yield (%) = (1 − waste ÷ 100) × 100. Drawing thins the filament by stretching it; since mass is conserved, denier drops in proportion to the draw ratio. Reference constant: 250D ÷ 1.6 ≈ 156D.
Worked example
250 denier POY at a draw ratio of 1.6 → estimated DTY denier = 250 ÷ 1.6 = 156.25 ≈ 156D. With 4% waste entered, theoretical yield = (1 − 4 ÷ 100) × 100 = 96%; so 1,000 kg of POY ≈ 960 kg of DTY (denier is unchanged, only mass yield falls). This is an estimate — for exact denier and yield, see the machine report.
Estimated — indicative value.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between POY and DTY?
POY (Partially Oriented Yarn) is the unstable intermediate spun at high speed from the melt but not fully drawn. DTY (Draw Textured Yarn) is made by simultaneously drawing the POY (it gets finer) and texturing it (it gains crimp/bulk) on a draw-texturing machine, yielding a yarn ready for weaving and knitting.
How does draw ratio change the denier?
Drawing stretches and lengthens the filament; because mass is conserved, fewer grams fall on the same length and the denier decreases. DTY denier ≈ POY denier ÷ draw ratio. E.g. drawing 250D POY at 1.6 gives ≈ 156D DTY; at 1.5 it gives ≈ 167D, at 1.7 ≈ 147D.
What is a typical draw ratio?
For standard polyester DTY the draw ratio is usually in the 1.5–1.7 range; it is set on the machine according to yarn type, POY orientation and the target DTY denier.
Is this calculation exact?
No, it is an estimate. Actual DTY denier and yield vary with machine, temperature, tension, waste and orientation differences. Use the result for pre-planning and rely on the production/machine report for exact figures.
Fabric weight calculator: construction to estimated GSM
Estimates a woven fabric’s weight (g/m²) from warp and weft set plus the warp and weft yarn counts.
Compute (set × Tex ÷ 10) for warp and weft separately, multiply each by the crimp allowance, then add them. This gives an estimated GSM from construction; the exact weight is confirmed by weighing a sample per ISO 3801.
How does thread density affect weight?
With yarn count held constant, weight scales linearly with set: doubling warp or weft density doubles that direction’s weight contribution. A denser construction means a heavier fabric.
Why add a crimp allowance?
Yarn waves over and under as it interlaces, so it travels farther than the fabric dimension; that extra length adds weight. The 6% default is a typical estimate — higher for tight weaves, lower for open ones.
Why is the result an estimate?
The calculation cannot know actual crimp, finishing gain or loss, or moisture regain; these are approximated with a default crimp allowance. For sample approval, rely on the ISO 3801 weighed result.
Roll length calculator: diameter to meters (estimated)
Estimates the wound length of a fabric roll from its outer diameter, inner core diameter and fabric thickness.
Formula
L (m) = π × (D_outer² − D_inner²) ÷ (4 × thickness) ÷ 1000 — D and thickness in mm, result is estimated
Without unwinding, measure the outer diameter, the inner core (tube) diameter and the single-layer fabric thickness in mm; plug them into L = π × (D_outer² − D_inner²) ÷ (4 × thickness) and divide by 1000 to convert to meters. The result is an estimate based on a uniform-spiral assumption.
Why is this result an estimate?
The formula assumes a perfect spiral wind and constant thickness. In practice winding tension, loft, moisture and fabric compression shift the figure, so expect about ±5-10% and unwind to measure when an exact length is required.
How do I measure thickness accurately?
Measure the thickness of a single fabric layer with a thickness gauge (micrometer), under a standard load if possible. Thickness is inversely proportional in the formula, so halving it doubles the estimated length — small errors here matter.
What if I ignore the inner core diameter?
The inner core (cardboard tube) holds no fabric; treating its diameter as zero overstates the length. In the example, ignoring the core gives ≈141.4 m versus the true estimate of 125.7 m — roughly 12% high.
Yarn consumption per fabric calculator
From construction, width, order length and waste percentage, find an order’s total yarn requirement (kg, waste included).
Formula
Yarn per metre (g) = (warp + weft g/m²) × width(m). Total yarn (kg) = yarn per metre(g) × order_m ÷ 1000 × (1 + waste). Enter waste as a decimal: 4% → 0.04. Warp and weft g/m² come from the fabric construction (weight calculator).
Worked example
Warp 95 g/m² + weft 85 g/m² = 180 g/m²; width 1.5 m; order 1,000 m; waste 4% (0.04). Yarn per metre = 180 × 1.5 = 270 g. Total = 270 × 1,000 ÷ 1,000 × (1 + 0.04) = 270 × 1.04 = 280.8 kg. The no-waste figure is 270 kg; 4% waste adds 10.8 kg.
Estimated — indicative value.
Frequently asked questions
How much yarn does a fabric need?
Total yarn (kg) = (warp + weft g/m²) × width × order_m ÷ 1000 × (1 + waste). E.g. 180 g/m², 1.5 m width, 1,000 m, 4% waste: 270 × 1,000 ÷ 1,000 × 1.04 = 280.8 kg.
What waste percentage should I use?
Waste covers knitting/weaving loss, selvedge, tie-in and sampling. Typical ranges are 3–6% for knits and 5–10% for wovens; use your own production data or our RFQ team for an exact figure.
Where do I get the warp and weft g/m²?
From the fabric construction: the mass per square metre of each yarn system. Their sum is the fabric’s total weight (g/m²), listed per fabric in our TDS sheets.
Is the result exact or estimated?
The result is estimated: actual g/m² measurement tolerance, shrinkage/finishing and the real waste rate all shift it. For a binding quantity, work from the TDS weight and an agreed waste figure.
Warp / beam yarn calculator
From warp density, width and beam length, find total ends and the warp yarn weight you need.
Formula
Total ends = warp density (ends/cm) × usable width (cm). Warp yarn (kg) = total ends × beam length (m) × Tex ÷ 1,000,000 × (1 + take-up + waste). Tex = dtex ÷ 10; for denier, Tex = denier ÷ 9. Enter take-up and waste as decimals (e.g. 3% → 0.03).
First, total ends = density (ends/cm) × usable width (cm). Then warp yarn (kg) = total ends × beam length (m) × Tex ÷ 1,000,000, multiplied by (1 + take-up + waste). Get Tex from dtex ÷ 10.
Why add take-up and waste?
Take-up is the warp shortening as it interlaces during weaving; waste is yarn lost in warp preparation and weaving (knotting, breaks, beam head and tail). Both are added as allowances on top of the net yarn, otherwise the beam runs short.
I use denier yarn — how do I convert to Tex?
Tex = denier ÷ 9. E.g. 150 denier = 16.67 Tex. For dtex, Tex = dtex ÷ 10; 167 dtex = 16.7 Tex. The formula always takes Tex because the ÷ 1,000,000 constant is Tex-based (g per 1000 m).
Should I enter usable width or reed width?
Enter the actual warp width wound on the beam — the usable width in the reed — not the finished fabric width. Warp is wider because of shrinkage and selvedge allowances.
From a target output and waste rate, find the input quantity you must start the process with.
Formula
Input = output ÷ (1 − waste). Here waste is the fraction of the input lost in the process (percent ÷ 100). Efficiency = 1 − waste. Waste is the mass lost, efficiency is the usable remainder; together they make 1 (i.e. 100%).
Waste rate = quantity lost ÷ input started. For example, if 86.96 kg is lost from 1,086.96 kg of input, waste = 86.96 ÷ 1,086.96 = 0.08, i.e. 8%. To find the required input, work it backwards: input = output ÷ (1 − waste).
Why not just multiply output by (1 + waste)?
Because waste is a fraction of the input, not the output. Adding 8% to the output under-plans the input. The correct step is to divide output by (1 − waste): 1,000 ÷ 0.92 = 1,086.96 kg; 1,000 × 1.08 = 1,080 kg falls short.
Are waste and efficiency the same thing?
No, they complement each other. Efficiency = 1 − waste. An 8% waste means 92% efficiency. Input can also be written as output ÷ efficiency: 1,000 ÷ 0.92 = 1,086.96 kg.
How do losses combine across multiple process steps?
Steps combine by multiplication, not addition. For two successive 5% and 3% losses, total efficiency = 0.95 × 0.97 = 0.9215, i.e. 7.85% total waste. Input = output ÷ 0.9215.
Conditioned (Commercial) Weight Calculator
Turn dry weight into the invoiced commercial weight using the fibre’s commercial moisture regain.
Formula
Commercial weight = dry weight × (1 + R). R = commercial (legal) moisture regain. For a blend, R is the weighted average of the fibre regains by their proportions. Commercial regains: Polyester 0.4% · Nylon 4.5% · Cotton 8.5% · Viscose 12% · Wool 16.5%.
Worked example
100 kg dry cotton → 100 × (1 + 0.085) = 108.5 kg commercial weight. 100 kg dry polyester → 100 × (1 + 0.004) = 100.4 kg. Blend example — 65% polyester / 35% cotton: weighted R = 0.65 × 0.004 + 0.35 × 0.085 = 0.032; 100 kg dry yarn → 103.24 kg commercial weight.
Frequently asked questions
What is commercial weight?
Commercial (conditioned) weight is the contractual, invoiced weight found by adding a fibre’s legal/commercial moisture regain (R) to its bone-dry mass. Formula: commercial = dry × (1 + R). Because moisture varies with air conditions, this standard weight is used instead of a raw weigh-in.
What is the moisture regain of polyester?
Polyester’s commercial moisture regain is 0.4%. It is so low that dry and commercial weight are almost identical: 100 kg dry polyester = 100 × 1.004 = 100.4 kg commercial. For comparison, nylon is 4.5%, cotton 8.5%, viscose 12% and wool 16.5%.
How do I find the invoice weight of a blended yarn?
First compute the weighted-average R from the fibre proportions, then apply commercial = dry × (1 + R). Example: for 65% polyester / 35% cotton, R = 0.65 × 0.004 + 0.35 × 0.085 = 0.032; 100 kg dry yarn → 103.24 kg commercial weight.
What is the difference between dry weight and actual weight?
Dry (bone-dry) weight is the fibre mass with all moisture removed; actual weight is the real, moist weigh-in at delivery. From actual to commercial weight: commercial = actual × (1 + R_commercial) ÷ (1 + R_actual).
Yarn→Fabric Cost Calculator — ₺/kg · ₺/m · $ · €
From yarn price, weight, width and waste, derive a fabric’s cost per kg and per metre.
Formula
Cost/kg = yarn(₺/kg) × (1 + waste) + processing(₺/kg). Cost/metre = cost/kg × (GSM × width(m) ÷ 1000). Waste is entered as a decimal (5% = 0.05). The $ and € conversion is an estimated value at a build-time fixed rate (as of 24 June 2026: 1 $ = 32.50 ₺ · 1 € = 35.00 ₺) — these rates are indicative and NOT FINANCIAL ADVICE.
Worked example
Yarn 42 ₺/kg, waste 5% (0.05), processing 8 ₺/kg → cost/kg = 42 × 1.05 + 8 = 44.10 + 8 = 52.10 ₺/kg. At 180 g/m² and 1.5 m width the weight per metre = 180 × 1.5 ÷ 1000 = 0.27 kg/m, so cost/metre = 52.10 × 0.27 = 14.07 ₺/m. At the fixed rate, 52.10 ₺/kg is estimated at ≈ $1.60 ≈ €1.49.
Estimated — indicative value. · Not financial advice · rates estimated as of 24 June 2026 (1$=32.50₺ · 1€=35.00₺).
Frequently asked questions
How is fabric cost per metre calculated?
First cost/kg = yarn(₺/kg) × (1 + waste) + processing(₺/kg). Then cost/metre = cost/kg × (GSM × width ÷ 1000). E.g. 52.10 ₺/kg, 180 g/m², 1.5 m width → 52.10 × 0.27 = 14.07 ₺/m.
How should I enter waste?
Enter waste as a percentage; the tool converts it to a decimal (5% → 0.05) and multiplies yarn cost by (1 + waste). Waste covers knitting/weaving, dyeing and finishing losses.
What does the processing cost cover?
The processing ₺/kg field covers per-kg add-ons such as dyeing, finishing and knit/weave conversion charges; it is optional and treated as 0 if left blank.
Are the $ and € figures current?
No; the conversion is an estimated value at a build-time fixed rate (as of 24 June 2026, 1 $ = 32.50 ₺ · 1 € = 35.00 ₺). For a binding quote with your actual prices and the current rate, send an RFQ.
60 × 40 × 30 cm, 20 kg carton, 40' container. Box volume = 0.6 × 0.4 × 0.3 = 0.072 m³. By volume = floor(67.57 ÷ 0.072) = 938 · By weight = floor(26,600 ÷ 20) = 1,330. Count = min(938, 1,330) = 938 (volume is the limit). Load = 938 × 20 = 18,760 kg. Fill ≈ 100% (theoretical). Real stowage drops this because of pallet gaps and orientation.
Estimated — indicative value.
Frequently asked questions
How many rolls fit in a 40' container?
It depends on the roll/carton size and weight. A 40' container offers ≈ 67.57 m³ and a 26,600 kg payload limit; the tool divides those by your box volume and weight, then takes the smaller. For a 0.072 m³, 20 kg carton that is an estimated 938 units.
What is the difference between a 20' and a 40'?
A 20' container carries ≈ 33.14 m³ / 28,200 kg, a 40' ≈ 67.57 m³ / 26,600 kg. The 40' gives roughly double the volume but a similar payload limit — so for heavy cartons the binding limit is often weight, not volume.
Why choose a 40' HC?
A 40' HC (High Cube) is 30 cm taller than a standard 40' (2.69 m interior height), giving ≈ 76.04 m³. It is preferred for light but bulky fabric rolls because it allows one more stacking layer.
Why is the result estimated?
The calculation assumes simple stacking; actual loading varies with pallet size, carton orientation, stacking pattern and door clearance. Contact us for an exact load plan and shipping quote.
rPET Recycling Savings Calculator — Estimated Energy & Bottle Equivalent
From recycled-content share, shows the estimated energy saving versus virgin polyester and the equivalent number of PET bottles.
Formula
This is an INDICATOR, not a precise LCA. Estimated energy saving (%) = recycled share × 0.59 (rPET uses ~59% less energy than virgin polyester — source: EEA 2021). Recycled mass (kg) = product weight(kg) × recycled share. PET bottle equivalent = recycled mass(g) ÷ bottle unit weight(g) (default ~10 g).
Worked example
100 kg product, 70% recycled content → estimated energy saving = 0.70 × 0.59 = 0.413 ≈ 41% (estimated). Recycled mass = 100 × 0.70 = 70 kg = 70,000 g. Assuming 10 g per bottle, PET bottle equivalent = 70,000 ÷ 10 = 7,000 bottles. GRS context: 70% content clears the ≥50% threshold, so it qualifies for GRS certification.
Estimated — indicative value. · Indicator; not a precise LCA. Source: EEA 2021 (~59% less energy).
Frequently asked questions
How much energy does rPET save?
rPET uses roughly 59% less energy than virgin polyester (source: EEA 2021). The saving scales with recycled share: 100% rPET ≈ 59%, 50% rPET ≈ 30% estimated energy saving. This is an indicator; an exact figure requires a product-specific LCA.
What is the minimum recycled share for GRS?
For a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) label, at least 50% of the product weight must be certified recycled content. Content of 20–49% qualifies only under RCS (Recycled Claim Standard). Confirm the exact threshold and verification with your certification body.
How is the PET bottle equivalent calculated?
Divide the recycled mass in grams by the bottle unit weight. As a standard 0.5 L PET bottle is ~10 g, 70,000 g of rPET ≈ 7,000 bottles. Bottle weight varies by brand; update the field with your measured value.
Is this result an official carbon or LCA claim?
No. This tool gives an INDICATOR based on EEA 2021’s ~59% energy difference; it excludes the product’s transport, dyeing and finishing impacts. Verify with a certified, product-specific LCA before using it in marketing or reporting.
Care Label Generator — ISO 3758 wash instructions & symbol text
Generate ISO 3758 standard care instruction text from care selections.
Formula
Output orders the 5 care axes in the fixed ISO 3758 reading sequence: Washing → Bleaching → Drying → Ironing → Professional care. Each selection maps to the standard’s generic definition (e.g. tub + temperature, triangle = bleach, square = drying, iron = plate temperature, circle = professional care). Safe polyester default: 40 °C gentle · no bleach · tumble dry low · warm iron (110 °C). IMPORTANT: GINETEX/ISO symbol graphics are licensed for commercial use — this tool returns only the TEXT definition and embeds no unlicensed symbol artwork.
Worked example
Input: 40 °C, no bleach, tumble dry low, low iron (110 °C), no dry clean. Output text: “Wash at 40 °C · Do not bleach · Tumble dry low · Iron low (max 110 °C) · Do not dry clean”.
ISO 3758 text; GINETEX symbol artwork not printed unlicensed.
Frequently asked questions
How do you wash polyester?
Wash polyester at 30–40 °C on a gentle/delicate cycle; heat above 110 °C can deform the fibre. Tumble dry on low, and if ironing is needed use the lowest (110 °C) setting with a press cloth. Never use chlorine bleach.
What do care symbols mean?
There are five base symbols: tub=washing, triangle=bleaching, square=drying, iron icon=ironing, circle=professional care. A bar under a symbol marks gentleness, a dot or number inside marks temperature, and a cross over it means “do not”. This tool returns each symbol’s ISO 3758 text definition.
Does this tool output GINETEX symbol graphics?
No. GINETEX/ISO 3758 symbol artwork is trademark-protected and requires a licence for commercial labels. This tool produces only the standard’s official text definition and a human-readable care instruction; source the licensed symbol set from your supplier or GINETEX for the printed label.
Does the order of symbols on the label matter?
Yes. ISO 3758 defines a fixed reading order: washing → bleaching → drying → ironing → professional care. This tool always emits output in that order so the label stays internationally readable.
Colour Matcher — nearest Fersan dye from HEX/RGB (ΔE2000)
Give a HEX or RGB colour and it returns the closest colour from Fersan’s in-house dye library by ΔE2000, plus a closeness score.
Formula
Step 1: sRGB → CIELAB (D65 white point: Xn=0.95047 · Yn=1.0 · Zn=1.08883). Step 2: compute CIEDE2000 (ΔE2000) between the input colour’s Lab value and each library dye’s Lab value; the dye with the smallest ΔE is the nearest match. The colour difference is an estimated on-screen value — a binding match is confirmed by a physical lab-dip. IMPORTANT: Pantone TCX values are proprietary and are not embedded; only Fersan’s curated in-house palette is used.
Worked example
Input #1E5AA8 → RGB(30, 90, 168) → CIELAB(L*=38.58 · a*=10.30 · b*=-47.28). The library is ranked by ΔE2000: the nearest match is “Saraçoğlu Blue” #235FA6 → ΔE≈1.80 — close enough to be indistinguishable to the eye in most conditions.
Estimated — indicative value. · On-screen estimate · binding match via lab-dip. No Pantone TCX embedded.
Frequently asked questions
How do I find the equivalent of a HEX colour?
The HEX code is converted to RGB, then to CIELAB under the D65 white point. The ΔE2000 difference is computed against every colour in the Fersan dye library, and the dye with the lowest ΔE is returned as the closest equivalent. The result is a screen-based estimate; it is confirmed by a lab-dip before production.
What is ΔE?
ΔE is a metric that expresses the total difference between two colours as a single number. In CIELAB space the differences on the lightness (L*), red-green (a*) and yellow-blue (b*) axes are combined. The closer to zero, the more identical the colours. This tool uses ΔE2000 (CIEDE2000), which correlates best with human perception.
Which ΔE counts as a “match”?
Common guidance: ΔE ≤ 1.0 is imperceptible to the eye, ΔE 1-2 is very close, and ΔE 2-3.5 is commercially acceptable. The exact limit depends on the colour, end use and customer standard — each brand sets its own tolerance.
Will you give me a Pantone number?
No. Pantone TCX values are proprietary and are not embedded in this tool. Matching is done only against Fersan’s in-house, curated dye library. Share your Pantone reference and we will hit it at the physical lab-dip stage.
DPP Data Preparation & Validation — Digital Product Passport Data Card
Collect the minimum DPP fields, run the 100% composition check, see the missing fields and get the “DPP-ready” status.
Formula
Composition valid ⇔ Σ(fibre percentages) = 100.0 (tolerance ±0.1). Missing-field count = Required fields − Filled fields. Required minimum = fibre composition + recycled content (%) + country of origin + chemical compliance (REACH/SVHC) + durability/recyclability; certificates (GRS/OEKO-TEX/RCS) are supporting. DPP-ready ⇔ composition valid AND missing fields = 0. INFORMATIONAL; NOT formal compliance advice — scope and dates must be confirmed against official regulation.
A DPP (Digital Product Passport) is a structured, machine-readable record (typically via a QR/data carrier) that presents a product’s identity, material composition, origin, recycled content, chemical compliance, and durability/recyclability in a standard format. It becomes mandatory under the EU Ecodesign (ESPR) framework.
Which data is mandatory in a textile DPP?
This tool covers the minimum themes: fibre composition (total 100%), recycled content (%), country of origin, chemical compliance (REACH/SVHC note), and durability/recyclability. Certificates (GRS/OEKO-TEX/RCS) are supporting. The exact field list will be set by the textile delegated act.
When does a DPP become mandatory?
The ESPR framework regulation is in force; textiles are a priority product group, and requirements phase in via delegated acts across 2026–2027. For exact dates, the official EU regulation governs. This tool is informational, not compliance advice.
Textile Glossary
The everyday terms of polyester knitting and finishing — defined clearly.
4
4-point inspection system
The standard for grading greige or finished fabric quality per ASTM D5430: defects score 1–4 points by length, capped at 4 per linear yard, normalized to 100 yd². Common acceptance is a typical ~≤40 points/100 yd² (strict 20–28).
A covering yarn in which polyester filament is air-jet wrapped around an elastane (spandex) core, giving a flatter, single-step stretch yarn than twisted covering. It is used in high-recovery fabrics such as swimwear, sportswear, and shapewear.
A staple-like, non-stretch yarn (Taslan type) in which a high-pressure air jet imparts loops and arcs to the filaments. Typical processing is ~7–10 bar, overfeed 5.5–36%, speed ~300–500 m/min, offering a covering, matte hand unlike DTY's crimp-stretch.
Low-liquor HT rope dyeing in which fabric is transported by a pressurized air stream rather than water, cutting water and energy with very low LR (typical ~1:2–1:4). The Fong's/THEN AIRFLOW Synergy is a representative machine (typical 20–40% energy saving).
A system that manages the whole supply chain — starting from input chemicals — for resource efficiency, chemical safety and emissions; it is process/input-focused rather than product-focused.
The fabric's capacity to let air and water vapor pass through. It affects comfort and is enhanced by open structures like mesh or piqué and by wicking.
Dyeing polyester at ~100 °C atmospheric using carrier chemicals that swell the fibre; it avoids pressurised vessels but carriers raise environmental/odour concerns.
Polyester modified with the SIPM comonomer to carry anionic sites, dyeable with cationic (basic) dyes; combined with regular PET it yields two-tone/heather effects.
Breaking PET back to its monomers or intermediates (glycolysis, methanolysis, hydrolysis, enzymatic); unlike mechanical recycling it can yield virgin-equivalent quality and textile-to-textile loops.
A perceptually-oriented colour space that locates colour by lightness (L*) and two colour axes (a*, b*); the basis of colour-difference (ΔE) calculations.
The resistance of color to washing, rubbing, light, perspiration and similar factors. Usually rated 1–5 on a grey scale, where higher means better fastness.
The finishing machine that mechanically compresses fabric lengthwise to bring residual shrinkage to commercial spec, available in tubular and open-width versions. Target shrinkage is a typical ~3–5% (premium <3%), with the steam-cylinder surface around ~140 °C.
The angle a water droplet makes with a surface; below 90° is hydrophilic (wets/absorbs), above is hydrophobic (repels). The core measure behind wicking and water-repellent finishing.
The process by which nearly all fibre-grade PET is made: PTA + MEG are esterified in continuous flow (~250–265 °C, typical) and built to target intrinsic viscosity by melt polycondensation under vacuum. It runs in either a chip (pellet) or melt-direct architecture, with a single line typically scaled at ~200–600 t/day.
The ratio of friction-disc surface speed to yarn speed, the primary lever for twist and bulk in false-twist texturing. Its typical range is ~1.6–2.2; higher D/Y gives more twist and bulk, lower D/Y a flatter, more balanced yarn.
A titanium-dioxide pigment added to the melt that lowers yarn luster — a property locked in at the polymer plant, not in dyeing. Typical loading is ~0% for bright, ~0.3–0.5 for semi-dull, and up to ~2% for full-dull.
A yarn's total denier divided by its filament count; it indexes fibre fineness. Below ~1.0 dpf is microfilament; lower dpf gives softer hand and denser cover.
The fabric's ability to retain its width, length and shape after washing and wear. Improved through heat-setting, sanforizing and proper yarn selection.
A class of sparingly water-soluble dyes used to color hydrophobic synthetics like polyester. Typically applied under high temperature/pressure so the dye diffuses into the fiber.
A two-bed knit producing a double-layer fabric with a clean face on both sides. Structures like interlock and scuba belong to this family; it resists curling and has body.
The ratio by which filament is stretched after extrusion; it orients the molecular chains, raising crystallinity and tenacity while lowering elongation.
A finish that lowers surface energy so water beads up; it provides repellency, not waterproofing. A shift to PFAS-free chemistries (silicone, dendrimer) is underway. Spray test AATCC 22/ISO 4920.
The heart of DTY production: POY is simultaneously drawn and twisted then heat-set, after which the twist runs back out, leaving a permanent crimp memory. The texturing unit may be a friction-disc stack, magnetic pin, or crossed belt, with a typical texturing speed of ~600–1,200 m/min.
The point on a circular knitting machine that delivers yarn to the needles per revolution; the number of feeders sets productivity (courses per turn). A typical 30-inch machine has ~48–120 feeders (~1.6–4/inch), and more feeders means higher output.
Fabric that stretches and recovers in both the width and length directions. Common in elastane-blended polyester knits for freedom of movement and fit.
A driven roller that conveys, draws, and sets the speed/temperature regime of the yarn in the spinning line; in FDY, heated godets perform inline drawing and heat-setting. Typical FDY godet temperatures are GR1 ~65–90 °C and the draw godet ~108–130 °C.
An international standard certifying recycled content, supply-chain traceability and social/environmental criteria. Commonly required for rPET products.
The weight of fabric per square meter in grams. It is the primary measure of a knit's thickness and density; low GSM means light/thin, high GSM means heavy/thick fabric.
A process that stabilizes synthetic fabric with controlled heat to lock in dimensions, width/weight and shape stability. It reduces shrinkage and spirality.
A hollow-cross-section polyester staple with permanent helical crimp (often siliconized, HCS), delivering high bulk, recovery, and insulation. It is used in pillow, duvet, and fill applications, with typical fineness ~6–20D.
Air-jet locking of filaments at periodic knot points — a mechanical, non-chemical cohesion that preserves yarn integrity in winding, weaving, and knitting. Typical levels are NIM ~0–10, SIM ~40–60, and HIM ~100–120+ knots/m.
A measure (dL/g) representing PET's molecular weight. Higher IV means longer polymer chains and higher tenacity; textile filament is typically ~0.62–0.66 dL/g (ASTM D4603).
A conjugate-spinning technique where two polymers are spun together and dissolving the 'sea' frees ultra-fine 'island' microfilaments; used for ultra-microfibres and suede-like surfaces.
A knitting technique where needles are individually selected to create complex patterns, colors or textures. It enables multi-color, figurative or structural designs.
A method that systematically quantifies a product's environmental impacts from raw material to end of life (ISO 14040/14044); the basis of carbon-footprint and water/energy claims.
The ratio of water mass to fabric mass in the dye bath — the single biggest lever on water, energy, and chemical consumption. Old jets run 1:15–1:20, modern soft-flow ~1:5–1:8, low-LR rope ~1:3.7–1:5, and airflow ~1:2–1:4 (typical).
The fundamental structural unit of knit fabric: a stitch formed by interlooping yarn. The arrangement of loops defines the fabric's structure and stretch.
A method measuring a fabric's abrasion (ISO 12947) and pilling (ISO 12945-2) resistance by rubbing the sample against a standard abradant; results as rub counts or a 1–5 grade.
A chain-of-custody model where recycled/sustainable input is allocated to products by accounting rather than physical segregation; reading a claim correctly requires knowing the method.
The lowest-cost mega-producer route in which continuous-polymerization melt is fed straight to the spinning heads without pelletizing, skipping the re-melt step of the chip route. It is the architecture favoured by mega-scale integrated plants (Hengli/Tongkun type), with a single CP line at a typical ~30–2,000 t/day.
When two colors match under one light source but differ under another. A color-matching issue controlled through dye selection and standardized light booths.
Microscopic fibre fragments released from fabric during washing and wear; staple and cut-edge constructions shed more than filament. Measured by the ISO 4484 series.
A soft, breathable regenerated cellulose fiber made from beech wood pulp. Often blended with polyester for a more natural hand and moisture management.
The overall performance of a fabric in absorbing, transporting and evaporating sweat. In polyester knits it is optimized via wicking, fiber cross-section and finishing.
An instrument (AATCC 195) that measures liquid spreading on both faces of a fabric, producing indices such as wetting time, absorption rate, one-way transport and OMMC.
PET's second main monomer, which esterifies with PTA to form the BHET oligomer and then the polyester chain. The reaction typically runs at a MEG:PTA ratio of ~1.1–1.2:1, with excess glycol recovered during polycondensation.
A six-module system that certifies a production FACILITY, not a product (chemical management, environment, wastewater, health & safety, social responsibility, quality management). It underpins the facility condition of the MADE IN GREEN label and is weighed alongside ZDHC and bluesign in buyer due-diligence.
The single-number summary of an MMT test, computed from bottom-face absorption rate, one-way transport and spreading speed. Ranges 0–1; higher is better.
A fast-crystallising polyester that dyes under atmospheric conditions and is elastic; often used for stretch (elastane-like) effects in blends and hosiery.
A family of fluorine-based chemicals resistant to water and oil and persistent in the environment; once standard in textile DWR, now being phased out by regulation.
Small balls of tangled fibers that form on the fabric surface from abrasion. Because polyester is strong the pills cling stubbornly; reduced via yarn quality and finishing.
The condensation polymerisation in which PTA and MEG build long PET chains while releasing water/glycol; run in the melt phase with a catalyst (e.g. Sb₂O₃).
Polyester fibre cut to defined lengths (32/38/51/64 mm) rather than left as filament, spun into staple (spun) yarn by ring/rotor/vortex or used in nonwovens. It is made via a five-stage chain (melt-spin → tow → draw → crimp → cut), with apparel fineness at a typical ~1.0–1.5 dpf.
Delivering yarn to the knitting machine at a constant, metered rate (from storage drums), required for constant stitch length, consistent GSM, and prevention of barré/tension faults. Memminger-IRO, BTSR, and LGL are typical suppliers in this field.
One of PET's two main monomers, produced by oxidation of paraxylene (PX) and esterified with MEG to build the polyester chain. The typical MEG:PTA feed ratio is ~1.1–1.2:1; in Turkey, SASA's Adana plant (~1.75 Mt/yr, Koch Technology P8++) is the country's largest PTA source.
The spinning step in which molten filaments leaving the spinneret are rapidly solidified by an air stream, where filament diameter and orientation are set. For microfilament, radial quench (e.g. Oerlikon EvoQuench) uses typically 60–80% less process air than cross-flow.
The multi-bar (4–~78 bars) class of warp knitting, producing lace, mesh, nets, and double-needle-bar 3D spacer fabrics. The KARL MAYER RD/HighDistance series are typical DNB raschel machines (~700–850 courses/min).
A standard that verifies the recycled content share in a product along the chain; unlike GRS it carries no social/environmental criteria, certifying content only.
The percentage by weight of a product derived from recycled material. Verified through standards like GRS and forming the basis of sustainability claims.
The share of dye lots that hit the target shade on the first attempt without redyeing — the real determinant of dyehouse economics. Redyeing roughly doubles a lot's water/energy/chemical/machine occupancy, so ~90%+ RFT is structurally cheaper than ~70%.
Polyester yarn made mainly from recycled PET bottles or textile waste. It offers performance similar to virgin polyester while reducing environmental footprint.
A DTY choice governed by the second (set) heater: a 'set' yarn with second heat-setting at ~160–180 °C is stable and soft, while a 'non-set' yarn (no second heater) is high-stretch and high-torque. It drives the fabric's stretch, hand, and twist-liveliness.
The dimensional loss of fabric after washing or heat, usually measured as a percentage. Polyester shows low shrinkage and is controlled via heat-setting.
The basic weft-knit made on one needle bed, with knit loops on the face and purls on the back. Light, stretchy and economical but prone to edge curling.
A method where pigment is added to the melt before spinning, locking colour inside the fibre; it gives superior light/wash fastness and large water-energy savings, at the cost of a minimum order per colour.
A three-dimensional fabric in which two face fabrics are bound by perpendicular monofilament pillars, knitted on double-needle-bar raschel — something neither weaving nor weft knitting can do. The typical gap is ~2–15 mm, offering breathability, pressure distribution, and insulation.
An oil–water emulsion applied to the filament right after quench that reduces friction, provides antistatic protection, and holds the filaments together. It safeguards yarn processability through the later godet, texturing, and knitting steps.
The main finishing machine that fixes fabric width, GSM, and dimensional stability and sets performance chemistry (via padder). For PET, typical heat-setting is ~180–210 °C / 20–60 s; Monforts Montex and Brückner Power-Frame are representative OEMs.
The length of yarn forming one knit loop — the main setting that, with gauge and yarn count, determines GSM, to which it is inversely related. In single-jersey knitting the typical stitch length is ~2.1–2.9 mm, kept constant by positive feed.
The PSF step in which drawn tow is compressed into a box to gain saw-tooth crimp and then heat-set, the crimp being needed for fibre cohesion and bulk in staple spinning. It is applied just before cutting to fix the crimp memory.
A digital/transfer printing method where disperse dye turns from solid to gas under heat/pressure and bonds permanently into polyester fibers. Yields vivid, wash-durable prints.
In PSF production, the thick continuous bundle formed by gathering thousands of melt-spun filaments, on which drawing, crimping, and cutting are performed. The typical draw ratio is ~3:1–4:1, after which the bundle is cut to staple length.
The fine, smooth class of warp knitting, typically using 2–4 guide bars, producing stable, run-resistant fabrics for linings, swimwear, shapewear, and mesh. The KARL MAYER HKS series (E28–E50, ≤~4,400 rpm) is the reference machine.
A three-lobed (Y-shaped) fibre cross-section that reflects light directionally for a silk-like lustre and hides soil. Common in carpet and lustrous apparel.
The degree to which a fabric blocks ultraviolet radiation. Increased by dense knit, dark color and UV finishes; a sought-after property in polyester performance wear.
The fabric's ability to move moisture (sweat) to the surface by capillary action for fast drying. A core function of polyester knits in performance and sportswear.
A compliance program aiming to eliminate hazardous chemical use and discharge in textile manufacturing. Governed by a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL).
A system in which practically all dyehouse wastewater is recovered and discharge is reduced to a solid/salt residue, adding evaporator and crystallizer stages on top of membrane recovery (UF/NF/RO). It demands high thermal energy and cost, with unit costs being study-dependent / representative.
The current formula (CIEDE2000) computing perceptual difference between two colours on CIELAB; lightness, chroma and hue weightings make it closer to the eye. Typical acceptance is around ~1 depending on the product.
