Tricot or Raschel? A Warp-Knit Selection Guide

Warp knitting is the fastest fabric-formation method in textiles: each needle is fed by its own warp end, and loops interlock in the wale (lengthwise) direction. The result is a run-resistant fabric with near-woven stability. Unlike circular (weft) knitting, no single yarn travels across a whole course; this requires warp preparation (warping), but for filament polyester it needs no sizing — the yarn is not abraded against a reed. Warp-knit machines split broadly into two families: tricot, which builds fine, closed structures, and raschel, which builds open, openwork structures. Choosing the right family decides from the outset whether a fabric becomes a lining or a lace.

Tricot: fine, closed, very fast

Tricot machines typically run with 2–4 guide bars and build a dense, smooth, closed surface at high gauge. This is the natural route for flat-handed, lightweight fabrics such as linings, swimwear, shapewear and fine mesh. The reference OEM KARL MAYER's HKS tricot series is built, representatively, in the E28–E50 gauge range and ~130–210 inch working width; the HKS 2-SE series reaches up to ~4,400 rpm by the maker's own figure — which is what makes tricot one of the fastest fabric-formation processes in textiles. The dimensional stability and low run tendency of tricot fabrics make them efficient for high-volume functional lining and sports applications.

Raschel: open structure, lace, net and 3D

Raschel machines use far more guide bars — representatively 4 to ~78 bars — which unlocks open, multi-bar structures such as lace, net, tulle and intricate openwork patterns. Single-needle-bar RSE/RSJ raschel series knit flat open fabrics, while the double-needle-bar RD family (e.g. RD 6/RD 7) and HighDistance variants connect two fabric faces with vertical monofilament pillars to produce 3D spacer fabric. A model such as the KARL MAYER RD 7/2-12 EL runs, representatively, at ~138 inch (3505 mm) working width and ~850 courses/min (~425 rpm); the spacer gap is typically set between ~2–15 mm. Neither weaving nor circular knitting produces this structure at the same efficiency — that is raschel's distinctive capability.

The selection test: is the structure closed or open?

• Closed, fine, smooth surface (lining, swimwear, shapewear, fine mesh) → tricot (KARL MAYER HKS class): few bars + high gauge + very high speed.
• Open, openwork, lace/net/tulle → raschel (RSE/RSJ class): many bars; pattern complexity scales with bar count.
• Bulky, pressure-distributing, breathable 3D structure (sports footwear, upholstery, orthopedic padding) → double-needle-bar raschel spacer (RD/HighDistance class).
• Run resistance and woven-like stability exist in both families; the difference is weight, openness and pattern freedom.

Tricot vs raschel compared

The practical decision can be summed up as: if the fabric must be fine, closed and produced fast/economically, choose tricot; if it must be open, patterned, or bulky/3D, choose raschel. Both structures are knitted from 100% polyester filament and later disperse-dyed at ~130 °C and heat-set on a stenter — for the dye/finish logic, see our disperse-dyeing and stenter guides. How yarn choice (POY/FDY/DTY, bright/semi-dull luster) governs surface and hand is covered in our yarn and melt-spinning guides; warp knitting is the step where those yarn decisions become fabric.